Low Carb One Skillet Cabbage Dish

We tend to eat a very low carb, high protein diet around here. On those nights where we just want some comfort food to warm our bellies and then to relax as a family, this works great because it can simmer as long as needed and everyone loves it.

This is a low-carb recipe that my family has perfected over the years. We were just trying to make a nice, filling cabbage dish that was easy to cook and easy to clean up. In order to make this recipe you’ll need an extra large skillet. You could instead use a large pot or Dutch Oven.

Almost like a chili and almost like a Goulash, this is my family’s go-to meal when we’re wanting fast, easy, and delicious. To be honest, I haven’t shared a new recipe in years. I almost exclusively share crochet patterns and tutorials and I am mostly sharing this recipe to the blog so that I have an easy, ready list of ingredients available to me when I go grocery shopping. I’m going to keep it as easy as possible and bookmark this page on my phone. Yes, it’s THAT good! I hope you love it, too.

This recipe feeds our family of four with plenty of leftovers. We do this on purpose for lunches, but you could easily halve this recipe and it would be enough for two people.

To make this Low Carb One Skillet Cabbage Dish you will need…

(2) pounds Ground Beef
(2) Bell Peppers, chopped (any color)
(2) Medium size onions, chopped
(2) bags frozen Cauliflower Rice
(1) 15 oz can of Tomato Sauce
(2) 10 oz cans of Rotel (any flavor)
(1) Head of Cabbage, shredded (or (2) 8 oz bags of pre-shredded cabbage – much easier!)
(2) cups Shredded Cheese of choice (we use Cheddar or Colby Jack)
Minced Garlic to taste (about 2 Tbsp)
2 tsp Chili Powder
2 tsp Garlic Powder
2 tsp Cumin
1 tsp Paprika
Salt and pepper to taste

In your extra large skillet (or Dutch Oven or largest pot) add the ground beef, bell peppers, and onions to the pan and sauté until the ground beef is browned. Drain as much of the liquid as you like. Add in the shredded cabbage and all spices (except salt and pepper) and mix well. Set to simmer.

Once the cabbage has reduced, mix in the garlic and allow the flavors to blend, about 10 minutes or so.

Add in the canned tomatoes, tomato sauce, and frozen cauliflower rice. Cover and allow to simmer, stirring often, until all flavors have melded. Top with cheese and let it melt.

Simmer on low as long as needed. Add salt and pepper to taste. I like to add sour cream to mine and maybe some hot sauce. I hope you love it, and be sure to let me know if you do!

Other recipe favorites:

Quick & Easy Bierock Casserole Recipe

Pickle Lover’s Potato Salad Recipe

The Best Roquefort Blue Cheese Dressing Recipe

Easy Slow Cooker Potato Soup

How to Make Homemade Butter

The Easiest Way to Make Roasted Garlic

The post Low Carb One Skillet Cabbage Dish appeared first on Heart Hook Home.

Basketweave Beanie: Free Crochet Pattern

This free crochet pattern for a Basketweave Beanie is the latest installment of the 2025 Donation Crochet Series. This pattern is meant for the special person in your life undergoing chemo or other medical therapy.

For this pattern we are using the Brava Baby DK yarn, a wonderfully soft yarn that is great for everyone. This is a 100% Premium Anti-Pill Acrylic which is a great yarn for donations because some people are allergic to wool or other animal fibers, but acrylic is usually fine. Plus this is SUPER soft without having to wash it. If you are familiar with the Brava line (see my full review here) you’ll know how soft it is already. I believe this baby DK is even softer than the worsted!

Materials:

Brava Baby DK (Size 3, Premium acrylic yarn)
-approx. 230 yards (less than one skein)

Crochet hook in size 5mm or size needed to obtain gauge

Gauge: 16 sts x 13 rows using Basketweave stitch

Sizing: Adult Medium (approx. 21″ circumference and 8″ tall)

Pattern Notes:

Pattern written using US terms.

The beginning chain does not count as a st.

If you need help reading a crochet pattern, make sure you head over here and check out this detailed post.

Abbreviations:

Ch(s): Chain(s)
Fdc: Foundation double crochet
Sl st: Slip stitch
Hdc: Half double crochet
St(s): Stitch(es)
Fp/Bpdc: Front/Back post double crochet
Dc: Double crochet
Fp/Bpdc3tog: Front/Back post three together

Pattern:

Round 1: Fdc-78 (or ch-80, dc in 3rd ch from hook and in each to end). Join to top of first st. (78)

Round 2: Ch-2, do not turn, * Fpdc around next 3 sts, Bpdc around next 3 sts * repeat between * * around. Join to top of first st. (78)

Round 3: Ch-2, turn, * Fpdc around next 3 sts, Bpdc around next 3 sts * repeat between * * around. Join to top of first st. (78)

Rounds 4 through 6: Ch-2, turn, * Bpdc around next 3 sts, Fpdc around next 3 sts * repeat between * * around. Join to top of first st. (78)

Rounds 7 through 9: repeat round 3

Rounds 10 through 21: repeat rows 4 through 9 in order.

Rows 22 & 23: repeat row 4

Round 24: Ch-2, turn, * Bpdc3tog, Fpdc3tog * repeat between * * around. Join to top of first st. (26)

Round 25: Ch-2, do not turn, Bp/Fpdc2tog (first half of decrease worked as Back Post and second half of decrease worked as Front Post) around. Join to top of first st. (13)

Round 30: Ch-1, do not turn, hdc in each st around. (13)

Fasten off leaving a long enough tail for cinching and weaving in ends.

That’s it! I hope you love this easy and quick Basketweave Beanie pattern and that you’ll make many of them to wear and to share. I can’t wait to see yours! Be sure to tag @HeartHookHome across all social media, or share in the Heart Hook Home Crochet Community on Facebook.

More beanie patterns for you:

Basic Back Loop Beanie: Free Crochet Pattern (7 sizes)

Back in Brugge Slouchy Beanie Free Crochet Pattern

Aspen Dreams Slouchy Beanie: Free Crochet Pattern

One Skein Messy Bun Beanie

Bricktown Slouch: Free Slouchy Beanie Crochet Pattern

The post Basketweave Beanie: Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Heart Hook Home.

Layering Tank Top Pattern

You can wear this tank top ANY day of the week and with just about any number of layers. This pattern is roomy and has plenty of air flow, meaning that it is comfortable to wear even during the warmest summer months. It also pairs perfectly with a button up, or flannel, and a pair of jeans and boots for fall! I can’t think of a better tank for layering.

For this tank top pattern I used Dilly Dally from WeCrochet. This is a new yarn that is a 70% Pima Cotton, 20% Bamboo, 10% Hemp blend. That fiber combination makes for excellent drape and breathability.

Other great yarn options include CotLin, Lion Brand’s Coboo, Premier’s Cotton Sprout, or check out the size 3 yarns on the Virtual Yarn Aisle!

All the layers! It just looks better the more you add to it. Ready to make one? Let’s grab our supplies!

Grab the ad-free, printable version of this pattern on Ravelry, Etsy, or right here in the Heart Hook Home Blog Shop. Thank you!

Materials:

Dilly Dally yarn (cotton blend/size 3)
-approx (550, 650, 750, 875, 1100, 1225, 1350, 1500, 1650) yards

Crochet hook in size 3mm or size needed to obtain gauge

Gauge: 19 sts x 11 rows in 4” square using Double Crochet

Sizing: (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)

Pattern Notes:

Pattern written using US terms.

Odd numbered rows are RS.

Beginning chain does not count as a stitch (unless otherwise noted).

First st = last st of previous round

If you need help reading a crochet pattern, make sure you head over here and check out this detailed post.

Abbreviations:

Ch: Chain
Fdc: Foundation Double Crochet
Sk: Skip
Dc: Double Crochet
St(s): Stitch(es)
Dc2tog: Double Crochet Two Together
Sp: Space
Slst: Slip Stitch

Pattern:

Round 1: Fdc-(152, 170, 190, 210, 228, 248, 266, 286, 304), alternately you could ch-(154, 172, 192, 212, 230, 250, 268, 288, 306), dc in 3rd ch from hook and in each to end. Join to first st made to form a circle without twisting. (152, 170, 190, 210, 228, 248, 266, 286, 304)

Round 2: Ch-2 (does not count), turn, dc in each st around. Join to top of first st made. (152, 170, 190, 210, 228, 248, 266, 286, 304)

Round 3: Ch-2 , turn, dc in first st, ch-1, sk-1 st, * dc in next, ch-1, sk-1 st * repeat between * * around. Join to top of first st. (152, 170, 190, 210, 228, 248, 266, 286, 304)

Round 4: Ch-2 , turn, * dc around ch-sp, dc in next st * repeat between * * around. Join to top of first st. (152, 170, 190, 210, 228, 248, 266, 286, 304)

Round 5: Ch-3 (counts as a ch-1), turn, sk-first st, dc in next, * ch-1, sk-1 st, dc in next * repeat between * * around. Join to 2nd ch in beg ch. (152, 170, 190, 210, 228, 248, 266, 286, 304)

Round 6: Ch-2 , turn, * dc in next st, dc around ch-sp * repeat between * * around. Join to top of first st. (152, 170, 190, 210, 228, 248, 266, 286, 304)

Rounds 7 through (18, 22, 22, 22, 26, 26, 26, 30, 30): repeat rounds 3, 4, 5, 6

Rounds (19, 23, 23, 23, 27, 27, 27, 31, 31) through (33, 35, 37, 39, 45, 47, 49, 51, 53): Ch-2, turn, dc in each st around. Join to top of first st. (152, 170, 190, 210, 228, 248, 266, 286, 304)

Front:

Where still attached…

Row (34, 36, 38, 40, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54): turn, sl st in (7, 9, 10, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 19) sts (these will not count in the stitch count for this row), ch-2, dc2tog using same as ch and next st, dc in next (59, 65, 72, 79, 85, 92, 99, 106, 112) sts, dc2tog. (61, 67, 74, 81, 87, 94, 101, 108, 114)

Rows (35, 37, 39, 41, 47, 49, 51, 53, 55) through (38, 40, 42, 44, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58): Ch-2, turn, dc2tog, dc across until two sts remain, dc2tog. (ending with (53, 59, 66, 73, 79, 86, 93, 100, 106) sts)

Front Left (as worn):

Row (39, 41, 43, 45, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59): Ch-2, turn, dc2tog, dc in (15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31) sts, dc2tog. (17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33)

Rows (40, 42, 44, 46, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60) through (43, 46, 49, 51, 57, 59, 62, 65, 68): Ch-2, turn, dc2tog, dc across until two sts remain, dc2tog. (ending with (9, 9, 9, 11, 13, 15, 15, 15, 15) sts)

Rows (44, 47, 50, 52, 58, 60, 63, 66, 69) through (53, 55, 59, 63, 69, 73, 77, 79, 83): Ch-2, turn, dc in each st across. (9, 9, 9, 11, 13, 15, 15, 15, 15)

Fasten off leaving long enough tail for seaming.

Front Right (as worn):

Leave (15, 17, 20, 23, 25, 28, 31, 34, 36) sts unworked and join in the next st.

Row (39, 41, 43, 45, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59): Ch-2, dc2tog using same as ch and next st, dc in (15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31) sts, dc2tog. (17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33)

Rows (40, 42, 44, 46, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60) through (43, 46, 49, 51, 57, 59, 62, 65, 68): Ch-2, turn, dc2tog, dc across until two sts remain, dc2tog. (ending with (9, 9, 9, 11, 13, 15, 15, 15, 15) sts)

Rows (44, 47, 50, 52, 58, 60, 63, 66, 69) through (53, 55, 59, 63, 69, 73, 77, 79, 83): Ch-2, turn, dc in each st across. (9, 9, 9, 11, 13, 15, 15, 15, 15)

Fasten off leaving long enough tail for seaming.

Back:

Looking at the OUTSIDE and leaving (13, 16, 19, 22, 25, 28, 30, 33, 36) sts unworked, join in the next st…

Row (34, 36, 38, 40, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54): Ch-2, dc2tog using same as ch and next st, dc in next (59, 65, 72, 79, 85, 92, 99, 106, 112) sts, dc2tog. (61, 67, 74, 81, 87, 94, 101, 108, 114)

Rows (35, 37, 39, 41, 47, 49, 51, 53, 55) through (38, 40, 42, 44, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58): Ch-2, turn, dc2tog, dc across until two sts remain, dc2tog. (ending with (53, 59, 66, 73, 79, 86, 93, 100, 106) sts)

Back Right (as worn):

Row (39, 41, 43, 45, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59): Ch-2, turn, dc2tog, dc in (15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31) sts, dc2tog. (17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33)

Rows (40, 42, 44, 46, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60) through (43, 46, 49, 51, 57, 59, 62, 65, 68): Ch-2, turn, dc2tog, dc across until two sts remain, dc2tog. (ending with (9, 9, 9, 11, 13, 15, 15, 15, 15) sts)

Rows (44, 47, 50, 52, 58, 60, 63, 66, 69) through (53, 55, 59, 63, 69, 73, 77, 79, 83): Ch-2, turn, dc in each st across. (9, 9, 9, 11, 13, 15, 15, 15, 15)

Fasten off leaving long enough tail for seaming.

Back Left (as worn):

Leave (15, 17, 20, 23, 25, 28, 31, 34, 36) sts unworked and join in the next st…

Row (39, 41, 43, 45, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59): Ch-2, dc2tog, dc in (15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31) sts, dc2tog. (17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33)

Rows (40, 42, 44, 46, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60) through (43, 46, 49, 51, 57, 59, 62, 65, 68): Ch-2, turn, dc2tog, dc across until two sts remain, dc2tog. (ending with 9, 9, 9, 11, 13, 15, 15, 15, 15 sts)

Rows (44, 47, 50, 52, 58, 60, 63, 66, 69) through (53, 55, 59, 63, 69, 73, 77, 79, 83): Ch-2, turn, dc in each st across. (9, 9, 9, 11, 13, 15, 15, 15, 15)

Fasten off leaving long enough tail for seaming.

Finishing:

Attach at base of armhole and sc around entire opening. Do the same for the other armhole and the neck opening.

Fasten off using Invisible Join and weave in all ends.

That is it! I hope that you love crocheting this pattern and that you’ll come back for more crochet patterns soon. Be sure to tag @HeartHookHome across all social media, or share in the Heart Hook Home Crochet Community on Facebook.

More tank top and tee patterns:

Simple Tunisian Tank Top Pattern

Shell Yeah! Free Tunic Crochet Pattern

Godiva Tee Free T-Shirt Crochet Pattern

Layering Hooded Vest Crochet Pattern

Perfect Parfait Three Tier Tank Top Crochet Pattern

The post Layering Tank Top: Free Crochet Pattern XS – 5XL appeared first on Heart Hook Home.

Holiday Sparkle Stitch Mix Blanket Crochet Along

There’s something about this sparkly yarn that I just adore. I made an entire Halloween blanket using it and I loved making it so much that I am starting over with a HOLIDAY version as well!

I’m usually not much of a sparkly or sequin person. In fact, I can’t remember the last thing I crocheted with sparkle yarn. But this yarn? This Holiday Sparkle Worsted 8? I can’t help myself. It’s GORGEOUS and will make for a beautiful throw!

If you too love this sparkle yarn (available in Halloween/Fall colorways OR in Holiday colorways), make a Holiday Sparkle Stitch Mix Blanket with me! Starting October 15th, we’ll crochet these beautiful colors into a holiday themed throw perfect for all of the chilly nights this season. Keep reading for more info.

For this Holiday Stitch Mix throw I ordered a total of ELEVEN Herrschners Worsted 8 acrylic yarn skeins. Each skein has 489 yards meaning that if you order the same quantity of yarn as I did, we’ll each have 5,379 yards of Holiday fiber goodness to crochet up a stitch mix blanket to cuddle up underneath while opening presents this holiday.

This blanket is going to be the go-to blanket in my house between the months of November and February. I just know it! Here’s what I have for my blanket…

If you want to change the sized of your blanket or order more yarn, the squares needed for each of the sizes are listed below. Crochet as many of these squares as you like! The 12″ squares range in yardage from as little as ~120 yards to as many as ~180 yards a piece. They average 150 yards per square, and you’ll want anywhere from 500 – 1000 yards for the border, depending on how large the blanket.

Materials for Exact Crochet Along (Queen size):

(3) Herrschners Holiday Sparkle skeins (“Frosty” pictured)
(2) Herrschners Worsted 8 skeins (“Royal” pictured)
(2) Herrschners Worsted 8 Skein (“Sterling” pictured)
(2) Herrschners Worsted 8 Skein (“White” pictured)
(2) Herrschners Worsted 8 Skein (“Medium Gray” pictured)

Crochet hook in size I/5.5mm or size needed to obtain gauge

Gauge: 14 sts in 4″ width using Double Crochet

Pattern Notes:

Patterns written using US terms.

The ch(s) at the beginning of each row do NOT count unless otherwise stated.

FLO = Front Loop Only

It is ideal for all squares to be slightly under 12″ so that we can block them all to the same size. Within half an inch (1 cm) or so is best. If you need to add another border row to get to that range, that’s perfectly fine! It’s better for your finished squyare to be a bit too small than too large. You can always add one more border round to get it to size.

There will be ten (10) 12″ square patterns included, with the stitches used strategically selected to ensure we’ll have maximum yardage left over for a nice, chunky border.

We will start crocheting on October 15th. Each day I walk 6 miles at the park while I crochet. I will take my yarn for the square with me, we’ll talk about the stitch, and crochet on it together. I am allotting myself two days’ worth of walking time for each square. I am making thirty squares, so that will take sixty days! If all goes to plan (I don’t walk outside when it’s below ~40 degrees F (4 Celsius) raining, so hopefully we have pleasant mornings!), that means I should finish my thirtieth square on or around December 14th.

Then we’ll assemble our squares together, add a border and finish by the end of the year! I am so excited to crochet this with you! I will add new squares to this blog post as I start crocheting them, every two days.

If you need help reading a crochet pattern, make sure you head over here and check out this detailed post. Come back to this post starting on October 15th, or sign up for the Crochet Along Email alerts here:

Be sure to check for the daily videos regarding this project on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok – starting October 15th!

Square Pattern #1 – C2C Moss Stitch Square

Here is a full tutorial for the C2C Moss Stitch. For this square I used about 155 yards.

For all squares in this blanket we are using the I/5.5mm hook. For this square I did go down to a 4mm hook for the border only. If you need to adjust the width of this square to be just shy of 12″, simply stop growing when needed.

Row 1: Magic Circle, Ch-3, sc in circle.

Row 2: Ch-3, turn, (sc, ch-1, sc) in ch-sp from previous row.

Row 3: Ch-3, turn, sk-first sc and (sc, ch-1) in next ch-sp, (sc, ch-1, sc) in beg-ch of previous row. Pull the beginning tail tight and continue on.

Rows 4 – 37 (or until width reaches ~11.5″): Ch-3, turn, sk-first sc and (sc, ch-1) in each chain space across, (sc, ch-1, sc) in the space of the beginning chain of the previous row.

Row 38: Ch-3, turn, sk-first sc and (sc, ch-1) in each chain space across. When you get to the end, sc in the beginning chain of the previous row without placing a chain in between.

Rows 39 – end (when only 2 sts remain): Ch-2, turn, sk-first two sts, sc in next space, * chain one, skip the next stitch, and sc in the next chain space * Repeat between * * until you have only one stitch remaining. Place one sc in the beginning chain of the previous row. (again, you should have two scs in a row without a chain between)

Finishing: Ch-1, turn, sc in the beginning chain of the previous row.

Switch to a G/4mm hook for the border row/s…

Border: Do not turn, but rotate clockwise. Sc evenly down row ends, 3sc in corner. Sc in each st/sp to end, 3sc in corner. Sc evenly up row ends, 3sc in corner. Sc in each st to end 2sc in last st. If desired, do one more row of single crochets around the border to clean things up or to get the square to size. Fasten off with Invisible Join.

Stay tuned for more square patterns to be added! There are TEN square patterns total so you can mix and match.

More crochet blanket patterns:

Simple Tunisian Chevron Throw Blanket Pattern

Cluster Ripple Blanket: Free Pattern

Comfort Crochet Blanket in Multiple Sizes

Meadowlark Blanket Free Crochet Pattern

Flat Granny Blanket: Free Crochet Pattern

The post Holiday Sparkle Stitch Mix Crochet Along appeared first on Heart Hook Home.

Corner to Corner Moss Stitch Tutorial

I’m so glad you found your way to this tutorial for working a C2C using the Moss Stitch. This is a fun, easy way to crochet something gorgeous, and to just the perfect size. Simply keep growing the width until its as large as you like, then switch modes and start decreasing to reach the corner on the other side.

The traditional Moss Stitch is a favorite of many crocheters. Whether that’s because of the simplicity of the stitch or the gorgeous way it works up, there are several variations of the Moss Stitch.

With the Moss Stitch You can…

Make a Moss Stitch Granny Square. I LOVE the look of this! And, you make it as large as you like. Simply stop when you’re done!

You can also make the Double Moss Stitch by inserting one extra row in between the regular moss rows and offsetting them in a four-row repeat. This is a fun, easy pattern that creates loads of visual appeal, especially with a nice color changing yarn.

You can even make a Moss Stitch triangle! That’s how we make this One Skein Head Kerchief using the Moss Stitch.

And now… we can make a C2C using the Moss Stitch for yet another variation. Let’s learn how to crochet the C2C Moss Stitch with this tutorial. Scroll down to find the video!

If you are familiar with the C2C technique, you know that part of the beauty of this method is that you start at one corner, growing both sides like a triangle. When the triangle gets as large as you want, its time to start decreasing for the other half.

The Moss Stitch is made using a combination of single crochet stitches and chains. We offset each row so that the single crochets always go into the chain spaces from the previous row. For the C2C method, and because we are starting at the corner and growing on both sides, there is no multiple needed in order to start.

Once you get past the first few rows the rest is a breeze. Here’s how:

1. Start with a Magic Circle, then (ch-3, sc) in the circle.

2. Chain three and turn, skip the first single crochet and place (sc, ch-1, sc) in the chain space from the previous row.

3. Chain three and turn, skip the first single crochet and (sc, ch-1) in the next chain space, then (sc, ch-1, sc) in the space of the beginning chain of the previous row. Pull the beginning tail tight and continue on.

4. Chain three and turn, skip the first single crochet and (sc, ch-1) in each chain space across. When you get to the end, place (sc, ch-1, sc) in the space of the beginning chain of the previous row.

Repeat step 4 until the triangle is as large as you want it to be.

When the desired width is reached and you are ready to start decreasing…

5. Chain three and turn, skip the first single crochet and (sc, ch-1) in the each chain space across. When you get to the end, sc in the beginning chain of the previous row without placing a chain in between.

6. Chain two and turn, skip the first two stitches and sc in the next space. * Chain one, skip the next stitch, and sc in the next chain space * Repeat between * * until you have only one stitch remaining. Place one sc in the beginning chain of the previous row. (again, you should have two scs in a row without a chain between)

Repeat step 6 until only two stitches remain.

7. Chain one and turn, sc in the beginning chain of the previous row.

That’s it!

I love how you can make this C2C Moss Stitch as small or as large as you like. What’s your favorite way to crochet the Moss Stitch, and what will you make using it? I think a square baby blanket would be a gorgeous addition to any nursery.

C2C Moss Stitch Video Tutorial:

If you would rather watch this video on YouTube, you can find it on my channel here. Don’t forget to subscribe while you’re there!

More Crochet stitch tutorials:

Tunisian Crochet Granny Square Tutorial

How to Crochet the Double Moss Stitch

Crochet Larksfoot Stitch Tutorial

How to Crochet the Half Treble Crochet Stitch

How to Crochet a Moss Stitch Granny Square

Wide Half Double Crochet Stitch Tutorial

The post Corner to Corner Moss Stitch Tutorial Step by Step appeared first on Heart Hook Home.

Free Crochet Corner Bookmark Pattern

This is the NINTH installment of the 2025 Donation Crochet Series. I can hardly believe that we’re already 3/4 of the way through this crochet series, and thinking back on all of the awesome things we’ve crocheted this year sure puts a smile on my face.

We’ve made a Walker Organizer, oodles of super quick hats for the homeless, a “Comfort Blanket” for someone undergoing chemotherapy or illness, slippers to wear in the hospital, a Twiddle Muff for Alzheimer’s patients, and so much more.

This month we’re making something super special for someone we care about that loves to read. Whether this person is on bedrest for a while, on Hospice, undergoing chemotherapy or other treatments, or even if they just love to read, this crocheted corner bookmark could be the perfect thing to let them know – and to remind them often – that you are thinking of them and that you love them.

Every time they use this corner bookmark they’ll have the reassurance of your unwavering support. If you find yourself unsure how to support a friend going through a hard time, this might be just the thing. A cream colored version with pearls incorporated would make for a gorgeous corner bookmark for a Bible! I may need to do that for the person in my life currently battling an ongoing illness.

This would also be a great pattern to make multiples of for donating to a local hospital or Hospice, library, or long term care facility. They work up quickly and don’t take much yarn! They are also easy to memorize.

To use a corner bookmark, you’ll simply insert the pages into the triangle and settle it into place. What’s great about this pattern is that it can be made using virtually ANY thin yarn and since this is a pattern that can be made as small or as large as you like, simply keep going! Note that it’s better to have it be a bit too big than too small and fall out easily.

For this pattern I am using Animation yarn from WeCrochet. This is a DK weight mercerized cotton that creates a nice and thin fabric and the color choices are vast! You can grab these little skeins individually or in a multipack set with lots of colors.

Other great yarn choices include Willow Yarns Farmhouse Cotton, Comfy Fingering, or Aunt Lydia’s crochet thread.

If you want to try a delicate one (maybe even with beads or pearls) you might try using a size 10 crochet thread like this. If you use a yarn that thin you’ll need to use a much smaller hook but the good news is that you can continue to add width until the bookmark is as large as needed or desired. It would be absolutely gorgeous! Ready? Let’s make one!

Grab the ad-free, printable version of this pattern on Ravelry, Etsy, or right here in the Heart Hook Home Blog Shop. Thank you!

If you need help reading a crochet pattern, make sure you head over here and check out this detailed post.

Materials:

Animation yarn (less than one skein per bookmark)

Crochet hook in size 3mm

Yarn Needle

Stitch Marker

Gauge: unimportant

Pattern Notes:

Pattern written using US terms.

The chain at the beginning of the row does not count as a stitch.

Tr = Treble Crochet (tutorial here)

Crossed Dc is used in even numbered rows. (tutorial here)

RS = Right Side = odd numbered rows

Pattern:

Make two… 

Row 1: Magic Circle, (Tr, 7dc, Tr) in circle. Mark the centermost stitch and pull circle closed. (9)

Row 2: Ch-2, turn, Tr in first st. Dc in next, dc in first st again (crossed dc made), * sk-next st, dc in next, dc in skipped st * repeat between * * to stitch marker. (dc, ch-1, dc, ch-1, dc) in marked st. Move marker to new center st. Repeat between * * to end. Tr in same as last st. (15)

Row 3: Ch-2, turn, (Tr, dc) in first st, dc in each st to marker, 5dc in marked st. Move marker to new center st. Dc in each st across, (dc, Tr) in final st. (21)

*make sure not to miss the chain-spaces from the previous row!

Rows 4 through (5, 7, 9, etc): alternate rows 2 & 3

When the desired width is reached, rotate to work across the row ends…

Ch-1, sc across row ends, placing one picot stitch every 4th stitch (only if desired). When you get to the magic circle beginning tail, crochet around it until you get to the other side to avoid having to weave in that end.

Fasten off the first triangle. Make the second triangle.

Construction: 

Stack the triangles with the “wrong sides” touching. Ch-1, sc through both thicknesses to corner, 3sc in corner st, sc through both thicknesses across. Fasten off and weave in all ends, making sure the edges are nice and secure.

That’s it! On some of my early drafts of this pattern I added a Crab Stitch edging to the perimeter, but I think that with most yarns it weighs it down too much and makes it fit not as nicely to be used as a bookmark. I do think, however, if you were to use the #10 crochet thread with a tiny hook, that it would not be too bulky and it would give a beautiful finished edging.

Corner Bookmark Video Tutorial:

If you would rather watch this video on YouTube, you can find it on my channel here. Don’t forget to subscribe while you’re there!

I can’t wait to see yours! Be sure to tag @HeartHookHome across all social media, or share in the Heart Hook Home Crochet Community on Facebook.

Stay tuned for the next free crochet pattern in the 2025 Donation Crochet Series!

More for you:

Monkey Bookmark Free Crochet Pattern

The Nerdy Bookworm Bookmark Free Crochet Pattern

Ways to Listen to Audio Books for Free

Excellent Beginner Crochet Books

How to Crochet a Yarn Organizer or Fanny Pack

The post Free Crochet Corner Bookmark Pattern appeared first on Heart Hook Home.

How to Crochet a Yarn Organizer or Fanny Pack

This pattern was born from my love of walking while I crochet. Or perhaps it should be crocheting while walking. Ha! I’ve had two different fanny packs over the years. The first one is an inexpensive fabric option that worked fine and is a good size, but I wanted more pockets instead of one huge pocket.

The second fanny pack I used was super cute but just too small, and the stitch markers had a way of jumping out of their pocket, never to be seen again. ‍️

I had had enough! Instead of fighting with fanny packs that were not my favorite, I created a gorgeous and useful fanny pack to take on my morning walks that has the best functionality, including a built-in MAGNET to hold the yarn needles and scissors in place! How cool is that?!

For this pattern we are using hard wooden bottoms that are intended for making baskets. The multi-pack that I purchased here comes with FIVE sizes. The fanny pack uses the second-to-largest size. The largest size is great to create a yarn organizer to have next to the sofa to keep your yarn needle, hooks, yarn, measuring tape, etc handy.

If you make both a sofa yarn organizer and the yarn fanny pack, you’ll have three smaller basket bottoms left over. Those might work great for smaller similar baskets in the office or bathroom to hold hair accessories, toothbrushes, or pens, etc. I plan to use the smallest oval to make one of these organizers on video. Stay tuned! I’ll share it here and on the Heart Hook Home YouTube channel when it’s ready.

For this pattern I am holding two strands of worsted weight cotton together using a 6.5mm crochet hook to create the Thermal Stitch. This is a sturdy, no nonsense stitch that is perfect for projects that need to be a bit rigid or stiff. I used this for the Casserole Carrier in the 2021 Household Series and it’s still holding up great!

If you are using this Yarn Organizer as a fanny pack, you’ll need to either purchase or make the strap. I chose to buy mine because the hardware alone was almost as much and this way I didn’t have to crochet that, too. So, I picked up a cute style of these replacement straps. Note that it is a bit too long so I’m going to have to either shorten it, or keep the knot tied in it to shorten it up just right.

I also ordered a 6-pk of these kinds of fasteners to attach to the back. I did have to add an extra washer on the inside so that the screw didn’t pull through the crocheted fabric, but I just found a couple of them in our junk drawer and no one will be the wiser.

The great thing about this Yarn Fanny Pack is that you can choose your pockets. How many, what size, the placement… ALL of that is completely customizable.

If you are using this yarn organizer for a place to hold all of your supplies nice and tidy next to the sofa, or your favorite crochet spot, you can add as many pockets as you want to the OUTSIDE of the organizer too! So handy!

I have included two sizes of this pattern, the smaller for the fanny pack size and the larger for the sofa organizer size.

Grab the ad-free, printable version of this pattern on Ravelry, Etsy, or right here in the Heart Hook Home Blog Shop. Thank you! If you need help reading a crochet pattern, make sure you head over here and check out this detailed post.

Materials:

Craft Cotton (Worsted weight 100% cotton, double stranded, “Dragon Fruit” and “Silverware” pictured)
-approx. (500, 750) yards total

Crochet hook in size 6.5mm (for main portion, double stranded)

Crochet hook in size G/4mm (for pockets and crocheting into hard bottom holes.)

Hard Basket Bottom (like this, second to largest size used for fanny pack and largest size used for the sofa organizer)

Fanny pack replacement strap (for fanny pack only, like this)

Handles (optional, and for sofa organizer only, like this)

Yarn Needle

(2) Fastener hooks (like these)

(2) washers (to keep the hooks secured, like these)

Magnet for sewing into yarn needle pocket (like these)

Gauge: Not super important but 11 sts and 20 rows in 4″ square using the Thermal Stitch

Pattern Notes:

Pattern written using US terms.

Odd numbered rows are “Right Side”.

BLO = Back Loop Only

If you find it helpful, follow along with the Thermal Stitch tutorial here.

Sizing = (Fanny Pack, Sofa Organizer)

Pattern:

Row 1: Ch-(79, 97), sc in BLO of 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end. Join to top of first st. (78, 96)

Rows 2 through (28, 34): Ch-1, turn, sc around using BLO of current round and BLO of previous round. Join to top of first st. (78, 96)
*or until desired height is reached, ending on an even round number

Row (29, 35): Ch-1, turn, sc through all three loops around (BOTH loops of current round AND the BLO of the previous round). Fasten off using Invisible Join. (78, 96)

Hard Bottom Prep:

For the fanny pack you’ll need to crochet 78 stitches around the bottom so that we can sew stitch-for-stitch to the 78 stitches of the crocheted basket. There are 52 holes on the second-to-largest hard bottom. This means we need to add an additional 26 stitches. For the Sofa Organizer you’ll need to take your basket bottom from 64 holes to 96 stitches…

Note that you could start the entire basket using the holes and keep adding height instead of making the basket separate and attaching later, but I like being able to work on the basket without the rigid bottom slowing me down for as long as possible AND I find that when you crochet into the hard bottom, the basket has a tendency to shrink. 

Next, plot out your stitches on the hard bottom so that you have (13, 16) sts centered on each flat side and (13, 16) sts centered on each end of the oval. As centered as can be. Attach in the far right (or left, if you’re left-handed) hole of the flat (13, 16) sts.

Prep Row: holding two strands of worsted weight yarn together with the 4mm hook… Ch-1, 2sc in each of next (13, 16) holes, sc in next (13, 16) holes, 2sc in each of next (13, 16) holes, sc in next (13, 16) holes. Fasten off leaving a long enough tail for sewing the basket to the basket bottom. You should have (78, 96) stitches on the hard bottom to equal the (78, 96) stitches on the crocheted portion.

Lay these pieces aside and create your pockets.

Pockets:

You can make as many pockets as will fit in, or ON, your fanny pack/organizer as you like. I have included here the pockets that I made for mine. Note that I did pin them in place using sewing pins just to make sure that 1.) they would all fit and 2.) that I liked the placement before I started sewing.

Cellphone size pocket:

Using the 4mm hook and single stranding the yarn, make two…

Row 1: Ch-26, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each to end. (25) (Or Fsc-25)

Rows 2 through 19: Ch-1, turn, sc in each st to end. (25)

Rotate clockwise, ch-1, sc down to corner, 3sc in corner st, sc across bottom, 3sc in corner, sc up to corner. Sl st to corner st. Fasten off leaving a long enough tail to sew in place.

Crochet Hook size pocket (single):

Using the 4mm hook and single stranding the yarn…

Row 1: Ch-7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each to end. (6) (Or Fsc-6)

Rows 2 through 19: Ch-1, turn, sc in each st to end. (6)

Rotate clockwise, ch-1, sc down to corner, 3sc in corner st, sc across bottom, 3sc in corner, sc up to corner. Sl st to corner st. Fasten off leaving a long enough tail to sew in place.

Crochet Hook size pocket (6 hooks):

Using the 4mm hook and single stranding the yarn…

Row 1: Ch-37, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each to end. (36) (Or Fsc-36)

Rows 2 through 5: Ch-1, turn, sc in each st to end. (36)

Rotate clockwise, ch-1, sc down to corner, 3sc in corner st, sc across bottom, 3sc in corner, sc up to corner. Sl st to corner st. Fasten off leaving a long enough tail to sew in place. When sewing, feed yarn through and leave 5 sts for each hook before tacking it down again to create the next spacer.

Measuring Tape size pocket:

Using the 4mm hook and single stranding the yarn…

Row 1: Ch-16, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each to end. (15) (Or Fsc-15)

Rows 2 through 15: Ch-1, turn, sc in each st to end. (15)

Rotate clockwise, ch-1, sc down to corner, 3sc in corner st, sc across bottom, 3sc in corner, sc up to corner. Sl st to corner st. Fasten off leaving a long enough tail to sew in place.

Yarn Needle size pocket:

Using the 4mm hook and single stranding the yarn…

Row 1: Ch-16, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each to end. (15) (Or Fsc-15)

Rows 2 through 15: Ch-1, turn, sc in each st to end. (15)

Rotate clockwise, ch-1, sc down to corner, 3sc in corner st, sc across bottom, 3sc in corner, sc up to corner. Sl st to corner st. Fasten off leaving a long enough tail to sew in place.

Magnet cover:

Using the 4mm hook and single stranding the yarn…

Row 1: Ch-5, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each to end. (4) (Or Fsc-4)

Rows 2 through 13: Ch-1, turn, sc in each st to end. (4)

Fasten off leaving a long enough tail to sew in place. (No border on this one)

Construction:

Pin your pockets into place. When you’re happy with the placement, you may find it helpful to turn the organizer inside out to speed up the sewing process. If adding handles, add those first!

Using a yarn needle, sew the pockets into place using the long tails and the whip stitch. This is the easiest, fastest way to secure your pockets. Weave in the ends well and clip the yarn as you finish sewing them.

When you get to the pocket with the magnet sewn in, start sewing that pocket down first, then when you get almost all the way around, slide the magnet inside and stitch her closed so that it can not move around. You’ll want to be sure to sew this pocket on BEFORE you sew the larger pocket around it to hold the yarn needles themselves.

Add as many pockets as you can or as you like. When finished, position the fanny/organizer portion on the hard bottom and sew stitch for stitch using the long tails. You can use the Whip Stitch or the Mattress Stitch. Whip Stitch is certainly faster!

If making the fanny pack, the finishing touches are to attach the fasteners using the included screws and some spare washers you might have hanging around. Here is a multi-pack if you do not have washers aplenty.

If you are making a home organizer for sitting next to you in your favorite crochet spot, you might want to instead add handles to your organizer to move it from place to place easier. You can even use stylish handles like these to snazz it up a bit! I am going to have to get shorter screws, as for some reason they sent super long ones in the kit.

Nevertheless, I am SO excited to be able to carry my project and tools around without having to try to carry everything in my own two hands. I also love that if I have something else (like a coffee or tea mug) in my other hand, the hard bottom makes it to where I can hold this confidently with one arm. LOVE THAT!

I hope you love these patterns as much as I do! I plan on both of them getting a lot of use over the years, and I love the fact that we can make as many of them as we want. Organizers and fanny packs for everyone!!

I can’t wait to see yours! Be sure to tag @HeartHookHome across all social media, or share in the Heart Hook Home Crochet Community on Facebook.

More home and organization patterns:

Walker Organizer Crochet Pattern

Hanging Baskets: Free Crochet Pattern

Glove Box Organizer: Free Crochet Pattern

Card Carrier: Free Crochet Pattern

Kitchen Chair Cat Hammock Crochet Pattern

Space Saving Stuffable Travel Pillow Free Crochet Pattern

How to Crochet a Double Thick Hot Pad

The post How to Crochet a Yarn Organizer or Fanny Pack appeared first on Heart Hook Home.

Double Moss Stitch Tutorial

The Double Moss Stitch is similar to the regular Moss Stitch but with more texture, more depth, and more density. This is a great stitch to use for all things from blankets to pot holders!

We incorporate Single Crochet Spike Stitches into this stitch pattern that are worked around the chains from the previous rows, which creates a nice thickness that helps the fabric hold its shape. Because of the added thickness of the stitch, you may find that you need to go up a hook size or two from what you typically would use with your yarn choice.

Questions about the Double Moss Stitch

How many chains do you need to start the Double Moss? In order to start the Double Moss Stitch you’ll need to start with a row of single crochet stitches in any odd number. If you are starting with a chain, and single crocheting your way back through, you will need to start with any even number since the last chain made constitutes the side of the first single crochet stitch.

It is helpful when crocheting the Double Moss Stitch to keep the chains on the looser side throughout. I have found that if I do not keep my tension a bit looser than normal that the fabric starts to shrink in on me.

This stitch is a four-row repeat. Once you get the first handful of rows down, the rest is a breeze!

To make the Double Moss stitch you need to start with an EVEN number of chains. Note that if you prefer starting with a foundation single crochet row you’ll want to have an odd number.

Double Moss Stitch Written Instructions:

1. Start with any even number of chains. For this tutorial I am starting with 14 chain stitches.

2. Single crochet in the second chain from the hook and in each to end. You should now have an ODD number of single crochet stitches.

3. Chain one and turn, placing one single crochet in the first stitch.

4. Chain one, skip the next stitch, and single crochet in the next stitch.

Repeat step 4 until you reach the end of the row.

5. Chain one and turn, placing one single crochet in the first stitch.

6. Make a Single Crochet Spike Stitch in the skipped stitch from row 1 (see photo) and chain one.

Repeat step 6 until you only have two stitches remaining.

7. Single Crochet Spike Stitch in the second to last stitch, and single crochet in the final stitch.

8. Chain one and turn, placing one single crochet in EACH of the first two stitches.

9. Chain one, skip the next chain space, and single crochet in the next stitch (should be the Ssc from the previous row).

Repeat step 9 until only one stitch remains.

10. Single crochet in the final stitch. Note that you should have two single crochets in a row to start this row and to end this row.

11. Chain one and turn, placing one single crochet in the first stitch.

12. Chain one, skip the next stitch, and Single Crochet Spike Stitch in the chain space from the row two rows down (see photo).

Repeat step 12 until there are only two stitches remaining.

13. Chain one, skip the next stitch, and single crochet in the final stitch.

14. Chain one and turn, placing one single crochet in the first stitch.

15. Chain one, skip the next chain space, and single crochet in the next stitch (should be the Ssc from the previous row).

Repeat step 15 until there are only two stitches remaining.

16. Chain one, skip the next chain space and single crochet in the final stitch.

17. Chain one and turn, placing one single crochet in the first stitch.

18. Single Crochet Spike Stitch in the chain space from the row two rows down, chain one, skip next stitch.

Repeat step 18 until there are only two stitches remaining.

19. Single Crochet Spike Stitch in the chain space from the row two rows down, and single crochet in the final stitch.

Start over at step 8 and continue adding rows until the piece is as tall as desired or needed.

When you go to fasten off, make sure that you end on a Single Crochet Spike Stitch row, and I like to substitute single crochet stitches instead of chains on that final row to keep things more stable and tidy for the border stitches, if adding one.

If you love the look of the Double Moss Stitch and the regular Moss Stitch, you would love the Moss Stitch worked in a Granny Square!

Here is the VIDEO tutorial for the Double Moss Stitch:

If you would rather watch this video on YouTube, you can find it on my channel here. Don’t forget to subscribe while you’re there!

That’s it! I hope you love this stitch and that you use it often! If you’re itching to get your “feet wet” with a fresh pattern, consider making the Double Moss Yoga Socks, a new pattern right here on Heart Hook Home!

More stitch tutorials:

Wide Half Double Crochet Stitch Tutorial

How to Crochet the Star Stitch (Step-by-Step)

Crochet Larksfoot Stitch Tutorial

Alternating Single Crochet Spike Stitch Tutorial

Alpine Stitch Crochet Tutorial

The post How to Crochet the Double Moss Stitch appeared first on Heart Hook Home.

Simple Tunisian Tank Top Pattern

If you are looking for a SIMPLE Tunisian tank top pattern, this is it! And also why I named it the “Simple Tunisian Tank Top”. We use the Tunisian Simple Stitch AND the design itself is super simple. We start at the bottom at the widest point, then decrease every other row alllllll the way until we get to the top of the shoulder. Then we add the v-neck front, seam the shoulders, and add the finishing touches. I LOVE it!

This pattern uses a sport weight cotton yarn called Katia Fair Cotton Diverso. This yarn is great for Tunisian Crochet because it is a bit grippy, meaning that it is easier to keep your tension even and the stitches stay nice and tidy. Depending on what size you need, you’ll need just ONE ball!

If you are trying to stash bust, or would like to use a different yarn, look for a size 2 cotton or cotton blend yarn that works up to a nice fabric when you are able to meet gauge. Other great yarn options would include Comfy Sport from WeCrochet, Lion Brand’s Cotton Bamboo Linen, or Premier Cotton Fair. If you’re outside of the US you could try the Friends 8/6 Cotton or Twister from Hobbii.

Grab the ad-free, printable version of this pattern on Ravelry, Etsy, or right here in the Heart Hook Home Blog Shop. Thank you!

If you need help reading a crochet pattern, make sure you head over here and check out this detailed post.

Materials:

Katia Fair Cotton Diverso (Sport weight/Size 2) yarn
-approx. (450, 500, 600, 650, 750, 850, 900) yards

Cabled Tunisian Crochet hook in size 4.5mm or size needed to obtain gauge

Stitch Markers

Gauge: 19 sts and 16 rows in 4” square using Tunisian Simple Stitch

Sizing: (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL) = fits up to (30”, 34”, 38”, 42”, 46”, 50”, 54”)

Pattern Notes:

Pattern written using US terms.

Backward Pass: Ch-1, * YO pull through two loops * repeat between * * to end.

TSS: Tunisian Simple Stitch

TSS2tog: Tunisian Simple Stitch two together – insert hook under next two vertical bars and pull up one loop.

Pattern:

Leave a ~(20”, 25”, 25”, 30”, 30”, 35”, 35”) long tail for seaming later…

Row 1: Ch-(168, 184, 202, 218, 236, 252, 268), pull up a loop in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end. Backward Pass. (168, 184, 202, 218, 236, 252, 268)

Row 2: TSS in each st across, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (168, 184, 202, 218, 236, 252, 268)

Row 3: TSS2tog, TSS in each st until only 3 sts total remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (166, 182, 200, 216, 234, 250, 266)

Row 4 through (39, 41, 45, 45, 49, 49, 49) alternate previous two rows (ending with (130, 144, 158, 174, 188, 204, 220) sts)

Row (40, 42, 46, 46, 50, 50, 50): repeat row 2 (130, 144, 158, 174, 188, 204, 220)

“Back left” (where still attached):

Row (41, 43, 47, 47, 51, 51, 51): TSS2tog, TSS in each of next (18, 21, 24, 26, 28, 32, 35) sts, TSS2tog, TSS in next st (will be the edge stitch next row). Backward Pass. (22, 25, 28, 30, 32, 36, 39)

Row (42, 44, 48, 48, 52, 52, 52): TSS across until 3 sts remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (21, 24, 27, 29, 31, 35, 38)

Size XS ONLY:

Row (43, x, x, x, x, x, x): TSS2tog, TSS across, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (20, x, x, x, x, x, x)

XS ONLY ~ Jump to ALL SIZES below.

Row (x, 45, 49, 49, 53, 53, 53): TSS2tog, TSS across until 3 sts remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (x, 22, 25, 27, 29, 33, 36)

S and M ONLY ~ Jump to ALL SIZES below.

Row (x, x, x, 50, 54, 54, 54): TSS across until 3 sts remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (x, x, x, 26, 28, 32, 35)

Row (x, x, x, 51, 55, 55, 55): TSS2tog, TSS across until 3 sts remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (x, x, x, 24, 26, 30, 33)

L ONLY ~ Jump to ALL SIZES below.

Row (x, x, x, x, 56, 56, 56): TSS across until 3 sts remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (x, x, x, x, 25, 29, 32)

Size XL ONLY:

Row (x, x, x, x, 57, x, x): TSS2tog, TSS across, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (x, x, x, x, 24, x, x)

XL ONLY ~ Jump to ALL SIZES below.

Row (x, x, x, x, x, 57, 57): TSS2tog, TSS across until 3 sts remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (x, x, x, x, x, 27, 30)

Row (x, x, x, x, x, 58, 58): TSS across until 3 sts remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (x, x, x, x, x, 26, 29)

Size 2XL ONLY:

Row (x, x, x, x, x, 59, x): TSS2tog, TSS across, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (x, x, x, x, x, 25, x)

Row (x, x, x, x, x, 60, x): TSS across until 3 sts remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (x, x, x, x, x, 24, x)

Row (x, x, x, x, x, 61, x): TSS2tog, TSS across, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (x, x, x, x, x, 23, x)

2XL ONLY ~ Jump to ALL SIZES below.

Size 3XL ONLY:

Row (x, x, x, x, x, x, 59): TSS2tog, TSS across until 3 sts remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (x, x, x, x, x, x, 27)

Row (x, x, x, x, x, x, 60): TSS across until 3 sts remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (x, x, x, x, x, x, 26)

Row (x, x, x, x, x, x, 61): TSS2tog, TSS across, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (x, x, x, x, x, x, 25)

Row (x, x, x, x, x, x, 62): TSS across until 3 sts remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (x, x, x, x, x, x, 24)

Row (x, x, x, x, x, x, 63): TSS2tog, TSS across, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (x, x, x, x, x, x, 23)

ALL SIZES:

Row (44, 46, 50, 52, 58, 62, 64): TSS in each st across, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (20, 22, 25, 24, 24, 23, 23)

Row (45, 47, 51, 53, 59, 63, 65): TSS2tog, TSS across, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (19, 21, 24, 23, 23, 22, 22)

Rows (46, 48, 52, 54, 60, 64, 66) through (68, 74, 80, 80, 86, 88, 90): alternate previous two rows. (ending on a row 2 repeat with (8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10) sts)

Size XS ONLY:

Rows (69, x, x, x, x, x, x) through (70, x, x, x, x, x, x): TSS in each st across, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (8, x, x, x, x, x, x)

Sl st across and fasten off leaving long enough tail for seaming.

“Front”

Attach in the same vertical bar as the “Back Left” ended.

Row (41, 43, 47, 47, 51, 51, 51): Sl st in next (6, 7, 7, 8, 9, 9, 9) sts (these sl sts will not count in the st count this row, but the loop currently on the hook will count as st number one, pictured below), TSS2tog over next two sts, TSS in next (66, 72, 80, 90, 98, 106, 116) sts, TSS2tog, TSS in next st (this will be the edge stitch in the next row). Backward Pass. (70, 76, 84, 94, 102, 110, 120)

Rows (42, 44, 48, 48, 52, 52, 52) through (45, 47, 51, 51, 55, 55, 55): TSS2tog, TSS in each st until only 3 sts remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (ending with (62, 68, 76, 86, 94, 102, 112) sts)

Start the V neck: (left chest, as worn)

Row (46, 48, 52, 52, 56, 56, 56): TSS2tog, TSS in next (28, 31, 35, 40, 44, 48, 53) sts only (final st will be the Edge stitch in the following row). Backward Pass. (30, 33, 37, 42, 46, 50, 55)

Rows (47, 49, 53, 53, 57, 57, 57) through (48, 50, 55, 60, 66, 68, 71): TSS2tog, TSS in each st until only 3 sts remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (ending with 26, 29, 31, 26, 26, 26, 25)

From here on up the armhole side does not decrease at all.

ALL SIZES:

Rows (49, 51, 56, 61, 67, 69, 72) through (66, 71, 76, 76, 82, 84, 86): TSS in each st until only 3 sts remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (ending with (8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10) sts)

Rows (67, 72, 77, 77, 83, 85, 87) through (70, 74, 80, 80, 86, 88, 90): TSS in each st across, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10)

Sl st across and fasten off leaving long enough tail for seaming.

Finish the V neck: (right chest, as worn)

Attach in next open vertical bar/stitch on row (45, 47, 51, 51, 55, 55, 55) to start the other half of the “front”…

Row (46, 48, 52, 52, 56, 56, 56): TSS in each st until only 3 sts remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (30, 33, 37, 42, 46, 50, 55)

Rows (47, 49, 53, 53, 57, 57, 57) through (48, 50, 55, 60, 66, 68, 71): TSS2tog, TSS in each st until only 3 sts remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (ending with (26, 29, 31, 26, 26, 26, 25) sts)

From here on up the armhole side does not decrease at all.

ALL SIZES:

Rows (49, 51, 56, 61, 67, 69, 72) through (66, 71, 76, 76, 82, 84, 86): TSS2tog, TSS in each st across, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (ending with (8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10) sts)

Rows (67, 72, 77, 77, 83, 85, 87) through (70, 74, 80, 80, 86, 88, 90): TSS in each st across, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10)

Sl st across and fasten off leaving long enough tail for seaming.

Back Right:

Attach in same st as “front” ended.

Row (41, 43, 47, 47, 51, 51, 51): Sl st in next (6, 7, 7, 8, 9, 9, 9) sts (these sl sts will not count in the st count this row, but the loop currently on the hook will count as st number one), TSS2tog over next two sts, TSS in next (18, 21, 24, 26, 28, 32, 35) sts, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (22, 25, 28, 30, 32, 36, 39)

Row (42, 44, 48, 48, 52, 52, 52): TSS2tog, TSS across, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (21, 24, 27, 29, 31, 35, 38)

Size XS ONLY:

Row (43, x, x, x, x, x, x): TSS across until 3 sts remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (20, x, x, x, x, x, x)

XS ONLY ~ Jump to ALL SIZES below.

Row (x, 45, 49, 49, 53, 53, 53): TSS2tog, TSS across until 3 sts remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (x, 22, 25, 27, 29, 33, 36)

S and M ONLY ~ Jump to ALL SIZES below.

Row (x, x, x, 50, 54, 54, 54): TSS2tog, TSS across, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (x, x, x, 26, 28, 32, 35)

Row (x, x, x, 51, 55, 55, 55): TSS2tog, TSS across until 3 sts remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass.(x, x, x, 24, 26, 30, 33)

L ONLY ~ Jump to ALL SIZES below.

Row (x, x, x, x, 56, 56, 56): TSS2tog, TSS across, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (x, x, x, x, 25, 29, 32)

Size XL ONLY:

Row (x, x, x, x, 57, x, x): TSS across until 3 sts remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (x, x, x, x, 24, x, x)

XL ONLY ~ Jump to ALL SIZES below.

Row (x, x, x, x, x, 57, 57): TSS2tog, TSS across until 3 sts remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass.(x, x, x, x, x, 27, 30)

Row (x, x, x, x, x, 58, 58): TSS2tog, TSS across, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (x, x, x, x, x, 26, 29)

Size 2XL ONLY:

Row (x, x, x, x, x, 59, x): TSS across until 3 sts remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (x, x, x, x, x, 25, x)

Row (x, x, x, x, x, 60, x): TSS2tog, TSS across, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (x, x, x, x, x, 24, x)

Row (x, x, x, x, x, 61, x): TSS across until 3 sts remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (x, x, x, x, x, 23, x)

2XL ONLY ~ Jump to ALL SIZES below.

Size 3XL ONLY:

Row (x, x, x, x, x, x, 59): TSS2tog, TSS across until 3 sts remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass.(x, x, x, x, x, x, 27)

Row (x, x, x, x, x, x, 60): TSS2tog, TSS across, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (x, x, x, x, x, x, 26)

Row (x, x, x, x, x, x, 61): TSS across until 3 sts remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (x, x, x, x, x, x, 25)

Row (x, x, x, x, x, x, 62): TSS2tog, TSS across, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (x, x, x, x, x, x, 24)

Row (x, x, x, x, x, x, 63): TSS across until 3 sts remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (x, x, x, x, x, x, 23)

ALL SIZES:

Row (44, 46, 50, 52, 58, 62, 64): TSS in each st across, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (20, 22, 25, 24, 24, 23, 23)

Row (45, 47, 51, 53, 59, 63, 65): TSS across until 3 sts remain, TSS2tog, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (19, 21, 24, 23, 23, 22, 22)

Rows (46, 48, 52, 54, 60, 64, 66) through (68, 74, 80, 80, 86, 88, 90): alternate previous two rows. (ending with (8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10) sts)

Size XS ONLY:

Rows (69, x, x, x, x, x, x) through (70, x, x, x, x, x, x): TSS in each st across, Edge stitch. Backward Pass. (8, x, x, x, x, x, x)

Sl st across and fasten off leaving long enough tail for seaming.

Finishing & Construction:

Block to (37”, 40”, 44.5”, 48”, 52”, 55.5”, 59”) wide and (19.5”, 20.5”, 22”, 22”, 23.5”, 24”, 24.5”) tall.

Cross over the bottom of the tank top with the points overlapping so that the overall width of the tank is (15”, 17”, 19”, 21”, 23”, 25”, 27”) when laid flat. Pin into place using stitch markers, when satisfied with the sizing, use the beginning tail to sew the two fabrics stitch for stitch.

Weave in all ends and seam shoulders shut using either the Mattress Stitch or the Invisible Shoulder Seam Stitch.

Back Chain:

Find the stitch (3) rows up from the armhole row. Attach with sl st.

Ch-(20, 25, 25, 30, 30, 35, 35) and attach in the corresponding stitch (3) rows up from the armhole row on the other side. Weave in all ends and you’re finished!

I hope you love this super simple, super CUTE Tunisian Crochet Tank. Be sure to tag @HeartHookHome across all social media, or share in the Heart Hook Home Crochet Community on Facebook.

More tanks and tops:

The Everyday Tank Crochet Pattern

Tunisian Sunrise Crochet Tank Top

Voluminous Tank Top Crochet Pattern

Godiva Tee Free T-Shirt Crochet Pattern

The post Simple Tunisian Tank Top Pattern appeared first on Heart Hook Home.

Baby Star Sleep Sack Free Crochet Pattern

This little sleeper might just be cutest little sleep sack you ever did see! We use one of my favorite worsted weight yarns, Brava Worsted, to make one of three sizes: Newborn, 3-6M, or 6-12M. This is a five-point star crochet pattern that we turn into a cute little cocoon type sleeper.

This adorable little sleep sack is shaped like a star with one point for each appendage. How precious is this?! Great for a gift for a new baby or for your own little one to stay cozied up while they sleep.

To determine the size needed for your little one, measure their “trunk” from their shoulders to their bum. You could use a zipper instead of the button closure if you’re feeling adventurous!

Grab the ad-free, printable version of this pattern on Ravelry, Etsy, or right here in the Heart Hook Home Blog Shop. Thank you!

Materials:

Worsted weight yarn (Brava Worsted used)
-approx. (485, 535, 670) yards

Crochet hook in size H/5mm or size needed to obtain gauge

St markers

(3 or 4) ¾” buttons

Gauge: 15 sts x 8 rows = 4” square using Double Crochet

Pattern Notes:

Pattern written using US terms.

Beginning chain does NOT count as a stitch.

Even rounds are Right Side (unless otherwise noted)

Body worked in join and turn rounds. Arms/Legs/Head (star points) worked in rows.

If you need help reading a crochet pattern, make sure you head over here and check out this detailed post.

Sizing: (0-3M, 3-6M, 6-12M) = trunk length up to (11”, 12”, 13”)

Abbreviations/Stitches:

Ch(s): Chain(s)
Sc: Single Crochet
St(s): Stitch(es)
Dc: Double crochet
Sk: Skip
Dc2tog: Double crochet two together
Sl st: Slip stitch
FpDtr: Front Post Double Treble Crochet
MC: Magic Circle
Bpdc: Back post Double crochet
RS/WS: Right/Wrong Side
Crab Stitch

Pattern:

Back Body

Round 1: Magic Circle, ch-2, 10 dc in circle. Join with a sl st in top of 1st dc. (10)

Round 2: Ch-2, do not turn, 2 dc in same as join, dc in next. * 3dc in next (mark centermost st), dc in next * repeat between * * 3 more times. Dc in same as 1st two sts. Join with a sl st in top of 1st dc. (20)

Rounds 3: Ch-2, turn, 2 dc in same as join, dc in each st to marker. * (2dc, ch-1, 2dc) in marked st, dc in each st to marker * repeat between * * 3 more times. (2dc, ch-1) in same as 1st two sts. Join with a sl st in top of 1st dc. (40)

Round 4: Ch-2, turn, 2 dc in ch sp, dc in each st to next ch sp. * 3dc in ch sp (mark centermost st), dc in each st to next ch sp * repeat between * * 3 more times. Dc in same as 1st two sts. Join with a sl st in top of 1st dc. (50)

Rounds 5 through (10, 10, 12): Alternate rounds 3 and 4. (ending with 140, 140, 170 sts)

3-6M ONLY
Round 11: Ch-2, turn, 2 dc in ch sp, dc in each st to marker. * 3dc in marked st (mark centermost st), dc in each st to next marker * repeat between * * 3 more times. Dc in same as 1st two sts. Join with a sl st in top of 1st dc. (150)

Do not fasten off. Continue to Star Points below.

Front Body

Round 1: MC, ch-2, 10 dc in MC. Join with a sl st in top of 1st dc. (10)

Round 2: Ch-2, do not turn, Fpdc around first st, * 3dc in next, Fpdc around next st (mark this st) * repeat between * * 3 more times. 3dc in last st. Join with a sl st in top of 1st Fpdc. (20)

Round 3: Ch-2, turn, 2dc in same as join, dc in each st to marker. * (2dc, ch-1, 2dc) in marked st, dc in each st to next marker * repeat between * * 3 more times. (2dc, ch-1) in same as first two sts of round. Join with a sl st in top of 1st dc. (40)

Round 4: Ch-2, turn, FpDtr around post st 2 rows down, dc in ch sp, dc in each st to next ch sp. * [dc in ch sp, FpDtr around post st 2 rows down (mark this st), dc in ch sp], dc in each st to next ch sp * repeat between * * 3 more times. Dc in same as first two sts. Join with a sl st in top of 1st dc. (50)

Rounds 5 through (10, 10, 12): Alternate rounds 3 and 4 (ending with (140, 140, 170 sts)

3-6M ONLY
Round 11: Ch-2, turn, Bpdc around post st in last round, dc in same as join, dc in each st to marker. * dc in marked st, Bpdc around post st in last round, dc in marked st, dc in each st to next marker * repeat between * * 3 more times. Dc in same as first dc of round. Join with a sl st in top of 1st st. (150)

Do not fasten off. Continue to Star Points below.

Star Points

1st point

From where you left off on “body”…

Row 1: Ch-2, turn, sk first st, dc in next st (ch-2 plus dc = dc2tog for remainder of pattern), dc in next (25, 27, 31) sts, dc2tog. (27, 29, 33)

Row 2: ch-2, turn, sk first st, dc in next st, dc across until 2 sts remain, dc2tog. (25, 27, 31)

Row 3 through (13, 14, 16): repeat row 2. (ending with 3 sts)

Row (14, 15, 17): Ch-2, turn, sk first st, dc2tog in last 2 sts. (1)

Fasten off.

Remaining Back Body Star Points

With (WS, RS, WS) facing, attach yarn in same stitch that last star point ended and complete Rows 1 through (14, 15, 17) as above.

Repeat until all 5 star points are complete. Weave in ends.

Remaining Front Body Star Points

With (WS, RS, WS) facing, attach yarn in same stitch that last star point ended and complete Rows 1 through (14, 15, 17) as above.

Repeat until 3 star points are complete. [1st and 2nd points will be the Legs, and 3rd point will be the Right Arm (as worn)]

Front Head and Left Arm star points are made separately and attached in construction.

Front Left Arm (as worn) Star Point

(Even, Odd, Even) rows are RS. Mark the RS to help with construction.

Row 1: Ch-(29, 31, 35), dc in 3rd ch from hook and each ch to end. (27, 29, 33)

Rows 2 & 3: ch-2, turn, dc in each st across. (27, 29, 33)

Row 4: Ch-2, turn, sk first st, dc in next st, dc in next 25 sts, dc2tog. (25, 27, 31)

Rows 5 through (15, 16, 18): Repeat row 4. (ending with 3 sts)

Row (16, 17, 19): Ch-2, turn, sk first st, dc2tog in last 2 sts. (1)

Fasten off.

Front Head Star Point

(Odd, Even, Odd) rows are RS. Mark the RS to help with construction.

Row 1: Ch-(28, 30, 34), dc in 3rd ch from hook and in next (23, 25, 29) chs, dc2tog in last two chs. (25, 27, 31)

Row 2: ch-2, turn, sk first st, dc in next st, dc across until 2 sts remain, dc2tog. (23, 25, 29)

Row 3 through (12, 13, 15): repeat row 2. (ending with 3 sts)

Row (13, 14, 16): Ch-2, turn, sk first st, dc2tog in last 2 sts. (1)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Construction:

Position Front Body, Left Arm Point, and Head Point on top of Back Body with WS’s together. Pin (or st mark) into place ensuring rows are lined up on all star points.

Edging:

Attach yarn at base of any 2 star points (into the top of a post st) making sure to go through both front and back…

Round 1: ch-1, sc in same as join. Sc evenly around cocoon (through both layers) placing 2 sc’s into each row end and 3 sc’s into each top of star points. Join with a sl st to first st.

* Note that the Front Left Arm is 2 rows longer than the Back. Those 2 bottom rows will not be worked into during edging.
* Front Head is 1 row shorter than Back Head, so when you get to first row of Back Head you will only work through the 1 layer.

Round 2: Ch-1 (do not turn), Crab st in each st around. Fasten off with Invisible Join and weave in ends.

Buttons:

Buttons will be placed on the bottom two rows of Front Left Arm. Arrange 3-4 buttons evenly across, centered between the two rows and sew into place.

I hope you love this baby star sleeper pattern and that you’ll share a photo of yours with me when you’re finished! Please be sure to tag @HeartHookHome across all social media, or share in the Heart Hook Home Crochet Community on Facebook.

More free patterns for baby:

Great Gender-Neutral Crochet Baby Blankets

One-Skein Baby Pants: Free Crochet Pattern

Pique-A-Boo Baby Blanket: Free Crochet Pattern

Baby Bear Newborn Sleeper Crochet Pattern

Baby Bottle Cleaning Brush Free Crochet Pattern

The post Baby Star Sleep Sack Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Heart Hook Home.