Tunisian Crochet Sock Pattern

Do you love Tunisian Crochet? If you’ve ever tried Tunisian, I’m willing to bet that you found it to be incredibly relaxing, and your project was beautiful. One thing I haven’t seen is a Tunisian Crochet Sock Pattern so let’s remedy that today! Available in 5 sizes, this Tunisian-in-the-Round sock pattern is fun, free, and fabulous. Let’s make a pair!

Tunisian Crochet Sock Pattern

This is the bonus pattern in the Sock Week collection, a group of crochet patterns geared toward your feet. There are simple socks, sleek socks, yoga socks, comfy socks, and gorgeous slippers. This Tunisian crochet sock pattern is the icing on the crochet cake.

If you love Tunisian crochet, you’ll love this sock pattern. For the toe we start with traditional single crochet, then switch to a double ended Tunisian crochet hook to make the body, heel, and leg. Then switch back to regular crochet to finish the edging.

There are five sizes included. This pattern is intended to fit snug on the feet so if you would like a more relaxed fit, or if you are between sizes, I recommend making the next size up. Some sizes require only the yardage of ONE hank of the recommended yarn, while the larger sizes require two hanks. Because we are using Tunisian-in-the-Round, we will need two yarn balls, one for the Forward Pass and one for the Backward Pass. If you’re one of the smaller sizes that only require one hank of yarn, you can either separate the hank into two yarn cakes (easiest in my opinion) or you can pull from opposite sides of the same yarn cake.

For this pattern I am using Hawthorne Fingering, a delicious fingering weight yarn that works up beautifully with socks. The colorways are gorgeous and this one in particular is screaming to my 90’s child heart.

Grab the ad-free, printable version of this pattern on Ravelry, Etsy, or right here in the Heart Hook Home Blog Shop. You can also grab the entire Sock Week Collection in one easy-to-read PDF (or here on Etsy). Thank you! If you need help reading a crochet pattern, make sure you head over here and check out this detailed post.

Materials:

Fingering/Size 1 yarn (Hawthorne Fingering in “Mississippi Multi” pictured)
-approx. (280, 325, 380, 425, 465) yards total

Crochet hook in size 4mm (for toe and edging)

Double ended Tunisian crochet hook in size 5mm or size needed to obtain gauge

(4) Stitch markers

Gauge: 14 TFS sts and 16 rows in 3” (NOT the typical 4”)

Pattern Notes:

Pattern written using US terms.

Mark the first st of each row with a stitch marker.

Once past the ankle rows, continue the “leg” to make the socks as short or tall as you like.

Backward Pass: YO pull through two.

For sizes 1 and 2 that require only one hank, pull the Backward Pass from the opposite end of the yarn cake OR separate the hank into two balls (Forward and Backward Pass) before starting.

Sizing: (1, 2, 3, 4, 5) = (W5-6, W7-9, W10-11/M8-9, M10-11, M12-13)

Abbreviations/Stitches:

St(s): Stitch(es)
Sc: Single crochet
Ch(s): Chain(s)
TFS: Tunisian Full stitch
Sl st: Slip stitch
Hdcslst: Half double crochet slip stitch
Sk: Skip

Inc = Increase = Yarn Over before starting next stitch.

Toe Size 1:

Using the 4mm hook…

Round 1: Ch-7, 3sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 sts, 5sc in last st. Turn to work up the opposite side of the chain… sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in the same as starting. Do not join, mark the first st of each round with st marker. (18)

Round 2: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in 6 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (22)

Round 3: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 8 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (26) Sc one extra time to move the first stitch over by one before starting the next row. *this stitch does not affect the stitch count here or throughout

Round 4: sc in each st around. (26)

Round 5: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 10 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (30)

Round 6: Sc in each st around. (30)

Round 7: 2sc in first st. Sc in 14 sts. 2sc in next, sc in remaining 14 sts. (32)

Round 8: repeat round 6. (32)

Jump to “Foot” below.

Toe Size 2:

Using the 4mm hook…

Round 2: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in 6 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (22)

Round 4: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 10 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (30)

Round 5: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 12 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (34) Sc one extra time to move the first stitch over by one before starting the next row.

Round 6: Sc in each st around. (34)

Round 7: 2sc in first st. Sc in 16 sts. 2sc in next, sc in remaining 16 sts. (36)

Round 8: repeat round 6. (36)

Jump to “Foot” below.

Toe Size 3:

Using the 4mm hook…

Round 2: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in 6 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (22)

Round 4: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 10 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (30)

Round 5: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 12 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (34) Sc one extra time to move the first stitch over by one before starting the next row.

Round 6: Sc in each st around. (34)

Round 7: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 14 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (38)

Rounds 8 – 9: repeat round 6. (38) Sc one extra time to move the first stitch over by one before starting the next row.

Round 10: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 16 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (42)

Round 11: Sc in each st around. (42)

Jump to “Foot” below.

Toe Size 4:

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Using the 4mm hook…

Round 2: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in 6 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (22)

Round 4: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 10 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (30)

Round 5: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 12 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (34) Sc one extra time to move the first stitch over by one before starting the next row.

Round 6: Sc in each st around. (34)

Round 7: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 14 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (38)

Round 8: repeat round 6. (38) Sc one extra time to move the first stitch over by one before starting the next row.

Round 9: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 16 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (42)

Round 10: Sc in each st around. (42)

Round 11: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 18 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (46)

Jump to “Foot” below.

Toe Size 5:

Using the 4mm hook…

Round 2: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in 6 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (22)

Round 4: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 10 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (30)

Round 5: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 12 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (34) Sc one extra time to move the first stitch over by one before starting the next row.

Round 6: Sc in each st around. (34)

Round 7: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 14 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (38)

Round 8: repeat round 6. (38) Sc one extra time to move the first stitch over by one before starting the next row.

Round 9: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 16 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (42)

Round 10: Sc in each st around. (42)

Round 11: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 18 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (46)

Round 12: 2sc in first st, sc in 22 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in remaining 22 sts. (48)

Jump to “Foot” below.

Foot:

Switch to double ended 5mm hook and grab yarn for Backward Pass…

Round (9, 9, 12, 12, 13): Sl st to next st (counts as stitch #1, mark with st marker and do not remove), Pull up a loop in each st around. Backward Pass as needed to work in a spiral. Do not join here or throughout. (32, 36, 42, 46, 48)

Rounds (10, 10, 13, 13, 14) through (38, 40, 42, 44, 46): TFS around. Backward pass as needed to work in a spiral. (32, 36, 42, 46, 48)

*Make sure that you are directly above the stitch marker placed in Round (9, 9, 12, 12, 13). If you are not, TFS until you reach that st marker. (Those sts will not affect the stitch count).

Heel:

Round (39, 41, 43, 45, 47): Inc, TFS (mark this st), Inc, TFS in (15, 17, 20, 22, 23) sts, Inc, TFS (mark this st), Inc, TFS in remaining (15, 17, 20, 22, 23) sts. Backward pass as needed to work in a spiral. (36, 40, 46, 50, 52)

Rounds (40, 42, 44, 46, 48) through (46, 49, 52, 55, 58): TFS in next st (should be in the increase of previous round and does not count as a st), Inc, TFS, Inc, TFS in each st to marked st, Inc, TFS, Inc, TFS in remaining sts around. Backward pass as needed to work in a spiral. (64, 72, 82, 90, 96)

Ankle:

Round (47, 50, 53, 56, 59): TFS in next (35, 39, 44, 48, 51) sts (from right side of first marked TFS stitch to the left side of other marked TFS stitch), TSS3tog (9, 11, 12, 14, 15) times. For sizes 1 & 3 ONLY – TSS2tog using remaining 2 sts. (45, 49, 57, 62, 66)

Round (48, 51, 54, 57, 60): TFS in next (35, 39, 44, 48, 51) sts, Sl st in each remaining sts. (sl sts here do not count as sts) (35, 39, 44, 48, 51)

Round (49, 52, 55, 60, 61): TFS in each st around, TFS in ankle sp. Backward pass as needed to work in a spiral. (36, 40, 45, 49, 52)

Leg:

Round (50, 53, 56, 61, 62) through (72, 75, 78, 81, 84) or until desired length is reached: TFS around. Backward pass as needed to work in a spiral. (36, 40, 45, 49, 52)

Ribbing:

Using the 4mm hook… sl st in each TFS sp around. Join to first sl st.

Row 1: Ch-9, hdcslst in 2nd ch from hook and in each chain. (8) Sl st to corresponding st on sock.

Row 2: Sl st to next open st on sock, turn, hdcslst in third loop only of each st to end. (8)

Row 3: Turn, hdcslst in third loop only of each st to end. Sl st to next open st. (8)

Rows 4 through (35, 39, 43, 47, 51): alternate previous two rows.

Row (36, 40, 44, 48, 52): Sl st to base of row 1, turn, sl st in third loop only of each st to end. (8)

Fasten off leaving a long tail. Seam row 1 to final row and weave in all ends.

Seam stitch for stitch down the heel. It helps when seaming the heel if you use the Backward Pass portion of the stitch. Weave in ends well.

Tunisian Sock Video Tutorial:

If you would rather watch this video on YouTube, you can find it on my channel here. Don’t forget to subscribe while you’re there!

I hope you love this pattern and I can’t wait to see yours! Be sure to tag @HeartHookHome across all social media, or share in the Heart Hook Home Crochet Community on Facebook.