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Olivia Sweater: Free Tunisian Crochet Pattern

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The Olivia Sweater is squishy, comfortable, and super stylish. Size inclusive with NINE sizes available ranging from XS – 5XL, this free Tunisian Crochet Pattern is the perfect sweater to get acquainted with Tunisian Crochet in the round. Let’s make one!

bright green crochet sweater v-neck

Olivia Sweater Tunisian Crochet Pattern

The idea for this pattern was sparked when I spotted a very fuzzy, very oversized, SUPER cute machine made sweater in a thrift store. It had definitely seen better days and I knew that I could make one that would not only fit me better, but I could use my preferred yarn color(s). That’s a win-win-win!

back of olivia sweater

I am proud to debut the Olivia Sweater featuring Tunisian crochet in a very beginner-friendly way. If you are familiar with Tunisian crochet you’re going to LOVE working up this design. If you’re brand new to Tunisian crochet, you’re sure to love learning the technique. And at the end you’ll have a comfy, stylish sweater to wear for your efforts. I wish you could feel how squishy this sweater is!

olivia sweater tunisian crochet pattern

Have you ever bought fuzzy yarn and were SO excited to get started, but then immediately put the project in time out because you couldn’t work with said yarn? Either it’s too difficult to see the stitches or impossible to count them. These are very common issues when using yarns that are difficult to frog (rip out). I have good news though… this may be the perfect pattern for that yarn! Grab it from the WIP graveyard and give the gauge swatch a go to determine if it will be a good fit.

For this pattern I am using Bubbly Boucle in “Lime Fizz”, a yarn that I have used in TWO other Tunisian Crochet Patterns in the past, the Odette and the Bernadette. Both of those are free crochet patterns as well.

Example of the Odette Cardigan Tunisian Crochet Pattern in a bright pink on a female model with a white undershirt and jeans on a cobblestone street.

Example of the Bernadette Boucle Cardi crochet pattern on a female model with a white undershirt and jeans standing on concrete stairs.

Tunisian crochet in the round is not difficult. I have several tutorials that will help you along the way if this is your first foray into the craft.

I generally find it much easier to use Tunisian when crocheting with fuzzy yarns if only for the reason that the stitches are nice and open. It is much easier to see your stitches than when using traditional crochet. For this reason, it’s also a great time to use the most basic of stitches. Since you can’t clearly see them anyway, they might as well be the easiest stitches to make!

light pink v-neck crochet sweater

For this v-neck sweater we are using the Tunisian Knit Stitch. So easy, it looks great, and works up quickly too. Head on over for the FULL tutorial on how to crochet the Tunisian Knit Stitch, and then if needed head over and watch this exact tutorial on how to do the Tunisian Crochet in the round. I even use the Knit Stitch in the tutorial! Simply chain as many chains as listed in the pattern below for the size that you are making and follow along with the video. Woot!

olivia v neck sweater crochet pattern

This pink version is a cashmere that is simply divine. It is much more airy than the green Bubbly Boucle version, and feels very delicate on. If you’ve got a yarn you think would look great with this pattern, be sure to do a gauge swatch to make sure that the fabric has a great feel to it after you are able to meet gauge. It’s so worth it! Read more on gauge and how to adjust it here.

For this design you will need a double ended Tunisian crochet hook. You can use stick hooks like these, but for the main body you will find it helpful to have a longer, corded set. Here is a full review of the Tunisian in the Round Hook set I used to make this design.

Caspian Tunisian Crochet Hook Set

For the pattern photos I used the Fluffy Day yarn from Hobbii (in the Steel Blue” colorway) and I absolutely love the way this one feels on. It’s brushed acrylic and is super warm and stylish!

blue fuzzy yarn v neck crochet

Grab the ad-free, printable version of this pattern on Ravelry, Etsy, or right here in the Heart Hook Home Blog Shop. Thank you!

If you need help reading a crochet pattern, make sure you head over here and check out this detailed post.

Materials:

Bubbly Boucle (size 2/Sport Weight or size 3/DK weight fuzzy yarn to meet gauge)
-approx. (800, 950, 1075, 1250, 1400, 1650, 1800, 2000, 2200) yards

Great yarn options for this sweater would be the Bubbly Boucle, Premier Pixie Dust, City Tweed, Brava Recycle, Fluffy Day from Hobbii, or any other yarn that can meet gauge and produces a fabric that you like.

Tunisian double ended in size I/5.5mm or size needed to obtain gauge

Gauge: 14 Tunisian Knit Stitches and 12 rows = 4โ€ square

Sizing:

Pattern Notes:

Pattern written using US terms. This is a Tunisian Crochet pattern.

TKS = Tunisian Knit Stitch (tutorial here)

TPS = Tunisian Purl Stitch (tutorial here)

TSS = Tunisian Simple Stitch (tutorial here)

TPS2TOG = Tunisian Purl Decrease Two Together (decreasing tutorial here)

Working both in the round with a double ended hook and in flat rows. Torso is worked from the bottom up. Sleeves are worked top down..

โ€œโ€Normalโ€ Backward Pass = Ch-1, * YO, pull through two loops * repeat between * * across.

Pattern:

โ€œTorsoโ€:

Round 1: Ch-(132, 148, 160, 176, 188, 204, 216, 232, 244): join to form a circle and TSS around. Backward Pass as normal until pattern tells otherwise.

Make sure to follow along with this video tutorial on YouTube if you are having issues getting past the first couple of rounds.

Rounds 2 through (28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44): TKS in each st around. (132, 148, 160, 176, 188, 204, 216, 232, 244)

โ€œBackโ€:

Row (29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45): TKS in (66, 74, 80, 88, 94, 102, 108, 116, 122) sts only.
*donโ€™t forget that the forward pass loop on the hook already counts as the first stitch.

Rows (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46) through (50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 72, 76, 80, 84): TKS in each st across. (66, 74, 80, 88, 94, 102, 108, 116, 122)

To fasten off, sl st across knit-wise across. Fasten off leaving a long enough tail for sewing shoulders.

โ€œFront Leftโ€ (as worn):

Attach yarn in the next open stitch on the torso where the โ€œbackโ€ endedโ€ฆ *donโ€™t forget that the forward pass loop on the hook already counts as the first stitch.

Row (29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45): TKS in (33, 37, 40, 44, 47, 51, 54, 58, 61) sts. Backward Pass: Ch-1, YO pull through 3 loops (dec made), * YO pull through two loops * to end. Stitch Count: (32, 36, 39, 43, 46, 50, 53, 57, 60)

Row (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46): SOLID ROW. TKS in each st across. Backward Pass as normal. Stitch Count: (32, 36, 39, 43, 46, 50, 53, 57, 60)

Row (31, 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47): DECREASE (DEC) ROW. TKS across. Backward Pass: Ch-1, YO pull through 3 loops (dec made), * YO pull through two loops * to end. Stitch Count: (31, 35, 38, 42, 45, 49, 52, 56, 59)

Row (32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48): repeat (dec, dec, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid) row. Stitch Count: (30, 34, 38, 42, 45, 49, 52, 56, 59)

Row (33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49): repeat (solid, solid, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec) row. Stitch Count: (30, 34, 37, 41, 44, 48, 51, 55, 58)

Row (34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50): repeat (dec, dec, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid) row. Stitch Count: (29, 33, 37, 41, 44, 48, 51, 55, 58)

Row (35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49, 51): repeat (dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec) row. Stitch Count: (28, 32, 36, 40, 43, 47, 50, 54, 57)

Row (36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52): repeat (solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid) row. Stitch Count: (28, 32, 36, 40, 43, 47, 50, 54, 57)

Row (37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49, 51, 53): repeat (dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec) row. Stitch Count: (27, 31, 35, 39, 42, 46, 49, 53, 56)

Row (38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54): repeat (dec, dec, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid) row. Stitch Count: (26, 30, 35, 39, 42, 46, 49, 53, 56)

Row (39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49, 51, 53, 55): repeat (solid, solid, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec) row. Stitch Count: (26, 30, 34, 38, 41, 45, 48, 52, 55)

Row (40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56): repeat (dec, dec, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid) row. Stitch Count: (25, 29, 34, 38, 41, 45, 48, 52, 55)

Row (41, 43, 45, 47, 49, 51, 53, 55, 57): repeat (dec, solid, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec) row. Stitch Count: (24, 29, 33, 37, 40, 44, 47, 51, 54)

Row (42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58): repeat (solid, dec, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid) row. Stitch Count: (24, 28, 33, 37, 40, 44, 47, 51, 54)

Row (43, 45, 47, 49, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59): repeat (dec, solid, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec) row. Stitch Count: (23, 28, 32, 36, 39, 43, 46, 50, 53)

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Row (44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60): repeat (dec, dec, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid) row. Stitch Count: (22, 27, 32, 36, 39, 43, 46, 50, 53)

Row (45, 47, 49, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59, 61): repeat (solid, solid, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec) row. Stitch Count: (22, 27, 31, 35, 38, 42, 45, 49, 52)

Row (46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62): repeat (dec, dec, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid) row. Stitch Count: (21, 26, 31, 35, 38, 42, 45, 49, 52)

Row (47, 49, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59, 61, 63): repeat (dec, solid, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec) row. Stitch Count: (20, 26, 30, 34, 37, 41, 44, 48, 51)

Row (48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64) repeat (solid, dec, dec, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid) row. Stitch Count: (20, 25, 29, 34, 37, 41, 44, 48, 51)

Row (49, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59, 61, 63, 65): repeat (solid, solid, solid, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec) row. Stitch Count: (20, 25, 29, 33, 36, 40, 43, 47, 50)

Row (50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66): repeat (solid, dec, dec, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid) row. Stitch Count: (20, 24, 28, 33, 36, 40, 43, 47, 50)

Size XS – Tslst across. Fasten off leaving a long enough tail for seaming.

Row (-, 53, 55, 57, 59, 61, 63, 65, 67): repeat (-, solid, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec) row. Stitch Count: (-, 24, 27, 32, 35, 39, 42, 46, 49)

Row (-, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68): repeat (-, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid) row. Stitch Count: (-, 24, 27, 32, 35, 39, 42, 46, 49)

Size S – Tslst across. Fasten off leaving a long enough tail for seaming.

Row (-, -, 57, 59, 61, 63, 65, 67, 69): repeat (-, -, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec) row. Stitch Count: (-, -, 26, 31, 34, 38, 41, 45, 48)

Row (-, -, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68, 70): repeat (-, -, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid) row. Stitch Count: (-, -, 26, 31, 34, 38, 41, 45, 48)

Size M – Tslst across. Fasten off leaving a long enough tail for seaming.

Row (-, -, -, 61, 63, 65, 67, 69, 71): repeat (-, -, -, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec) row. Stitch Count: (-, -, -, 30, 33, 37, 40, 44, 47)

Row (-, -, -, 62, 64, 66, 68, 70, 72): repeat (-, -, -, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid) row. Stitch Count: (-, -, -, 30, 33, 37, 40, 44, 47)

Size L – Tslst across. Fasten off leaving a long enough tail for seaming.

Row (-, -, -, -, 65, 67, 69, 71, 73): repeat (-, -, -, -, solid, dec, dec, dec, dec) row. Stitch Count: (-, -, -, -, 33, 36, 39, 43, 46)

Row (-, -, -, -, 66, 68, 70, 72, 74): repeat (-, -, -, -, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid) row. Stitch Count: (-, -, -, -, 33, 36, 39, 43, 46)

Size XL – Tslst across. Fasten off leaving a long enough tail for seaming.

Row (-, -, -, -, -, 69, 71, 73, 75): repeat (-, -, -, -, -, solid, solid, dec, dec) row. Stitch Count: (-, -, -, -, -, 36, 39, 42, 45)

Rows (-, -, -, -, -, 70, 72, 74, 76) through (-, -, -, -, -, 72, 76, 80, 84): repeat (-, -, -, -, -, solid, solid, solid, solid) row. Stitch Count: (-, -, -, -, -, 36, 39, 42, 45)

All Remaining Sizes – Tslst across. Fasten off leaving a long enough tail for seaming.

โ€œFront Right โ€ (as worn):

Attach yarn in the next open stitch on the torso where the โ€œFront Leftโ€ endedโ€ฆ *donโ€™t forget that the forward pass loop on the hook already counts as the first stitch.

Row (29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45): TKS in (33, 37, 40, 44, 47, 51, 54, 58, 61) sts. (should utilize each remaining stitch on torso) Backward Pass: Ch-1, * YO pull through 2 loops * repeat until 3 loops remain. YO, Pull through all 3 loops (dec made). Stitch Count: (32, 36, 39, 43, 46, 50, 53, 57, 60)

Row (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46): SOLID ROW. TKS in each st across. Backward Pass as normal. Stitch Count: (32, 36, 39, 43, 46, 50, 53, 57, 60)

Row (31, 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47): DECREASE (DEC) ROW. TKS across. Backward Pass: Ch-1, * YO pull through 2 loops * repeat until 3 loops remain. YO, Pull through all 3 loops (dec made). Stitch Count: (31, 35, 38, 42, 45, 49, 52, 56, 59)

Follow the decrease/solid row repeats as stated starting at row (32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48) of โ€œFront Leftโ€.

Seam shoulders using the Mattress Stitch or the Invisible Shoulder Seam technique. Do not weave in all ends until you’re completely finished.

Sleeves:

Attach at bottom of armholeโ€ฆ

Round 1: Pull up a loop (22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 34, 36, 38, 40) times up to shoulder seam. Knock those stitches off to free up space on hook. Pull up (22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 34, 36, 38, 40) loops down the other side. Stitch Count: (44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 68, 72, 76, 80)

Rounds 2 through (54) or to desired length: TKS in each st around. Stitch Count: (44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 68, 72, 76, 80)

Round (55): * TKS, TKS, TPS, TPS * repeat between * * around. Stitch Count: (44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 68, 72, 76, 80)

Round (56): * TKS, TKS, TPS2TOG * repeat between * * around. Stitch Count: (33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 51, 54, 57, 60)

Rounds (57) through (62): * TKS, TKS, TPS * repeat between * * around. Stitch Count: (33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 51, 54, 57, 60)

Tslst around. Fasten off and weave in all ends. Repeat on other side.

Neck opening:

Attach at either shoulder seamโ€ฆ

Sc in each row end/st around entire opening. Fasten off using Invisible Join.

Bottom Band:

Attach at any point on bottomโ€ฆ

Round 1: TSS in each st around. (132, 148, 160, 176, 188, 204, 216, 232, 244)

Round 2: * TKS, TKS, TPS, TPS * repeat between * * around. Stitch Count: (132, 148, 160, 176, 188, 204, 216, 232, 244)

Round (3): * TKS, TKS, TPS2TOG * repeat between * * around. Stitch Count: (99, 111, 120, 132, 141, 153, 162, 174, 183)

Rounds (4) through (8): * TKS, TKS, TPS * repeat between * * around. Stitch Count: (99, 111, 120, 132, 141, 153, 162, 174, 183)

Tslst in each st around. Fasten off and weave in all ends. That’s it!

Lime green example of the Olivia Tunisian crochet sweater pattern on a female wearing jeans in a park setting.

I hope you love your new Olivia Sweater and that you’ll wear it everywhere! I do have a traditional double crochet version in the works as well That I am calling the “Blanche V-Neck” that will be ready VERY soon! Stay tuned!

blue v neck crochet sweater

Please share a photo with me so I can see. Be sure to tag @HeartHookHome across all social media, or share in the Heart Hook Home Crochet Community on Facebook.

More Free Tunisian Crochet Patterns:

Odette Cardigan: Free Tunisian Crochet Pattern

Bernadette Boucle Cardi Crochet Pattern

Basketweave Backpack: Free Tunisian Crochet Pattern

Tunisian Twist Ear Warmer

Full Skein Scarf: Free Tunisian Crochet Pattern

Tunisian Basket Weave Blanket: Free Crochet Pattern

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4 Comments

  1. I have a question, in the instructions you say it's crocheted flat, but then you say it's in the round. Can this be made flat and then seamed?
    1. Hi Bonnie! This pattern is made using both in the round and flat...so the bottom portion is worked in the round, then when we get to around armpit level, it splits off and worked in front and back panels to create the armholes.
  2. Hi! I'm really excited to start this pattern for my sister (her name is Olivia!) but I'm really struggling to meet gauge with CotLin (Size 3/DK). I'm using a 6.5mm hook but am an inch below gauge in either direction. I can keep going up in hook size, but I'm trying to avoid the fabric becoming too gappy (which it is already starting to do). Is there anything I can try to do, or should I try a different yarn?
    1. Hi Sofia! The fabric of this pattern is a bit gappy, but it works out because of the fuzziness/halo of the yarn I used which kind of filled in those gaps. Since cotlin is a smooth yarn, those gaps will be more pronounced. I would suggest looking for a different yarn, maybe a #4/worsted weight if you don't want to use a fuzzy yarn...or you could size up in the pattern. An inch short on gauge is a pretty big discrepancy, so you may need to go up a couple of sizes. You can email sarah@hearthookhome with your gauge and she can try to help you figure out which size you should follow to get your desired finished size.