Child Size Crochet Shorts: Free Crochet Pattern
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The Staycation shorts for adults have been super popular, and I just know that the littles are wanting their own pair, too. In fact, you could work up a pair of these child size crochet shorts to get a feel for the pattern, then make a pair for yourself!
Child Size Crochet Shorts
If you’ve ever thought of crocheting shorts for a baby, this pattern is for you! Whether you’re crocheting a pair of shorts for a newborn photo shoot, or to wear in the summer, or as a baby shower gift etc, these child size crochet shorts work up super fast and don’t take much yarn either!
These adorable little shorts start at just newborn size and go all the way up to 12/14 youth. Then we pick up with the adult sizes that run XS through 2XL.
The precious little Baker is my model for these shorts. Is he not just the sweetest little thing?! Those rolls… that smile! You guys, he has ARMPIT rolls! Oh, my heart. ♥ My friends sure do make some beautiful babies.
For these crochet shorts I am recommending a cotton yarn – or a cotton blend yarn. You could use either Dishie Cotton, a 100% cotton yarn that is nice and soft, but also durable. I used Dishie yarn for the “Silver” colorway I made for myself here.
You could opt to go with the Comfy Worsted cotton blend that is a bit pricier but is so amazingly soft – which is what I used for the “Peony” colorway that I made for myself pictured below. In the child sizes you would need as little as two skeins of Comfy Worsted, or as many as five skeins for the largest size.
My infant model, Baker, is wearing the “Ivy” colorway of Comfy Worsted. This is such a beautiful, rich green! If you’re stash busting you could use any other cotton or cotton blend yarn that you have on hand.
Materials:
Comfy Worsted yarn (75% Pima Cotton, 25% Acrylic blend)
-approx. (150, 170, 190, 220, 270, 300, 350, 450, 475) yards
Crochet hook in size G/4mm
Elastic (for top band on smaller sizes, drawstring option for larger sizes)
*Note! You may notice that the largest child sizes uses slightly more yarn than the smallest adult size. This is because the actual shorts themselves are longer on the child sizes, and the adult have the lacier/fancy edging that make up the bottom half of the leg as opposed to the more solid stitching on the child sizes.
Gauge: 17 hdc sts x 12 rows = 4” square
Pattern Notes:
Pattern written in US terms.
Pattern is written with rows worked vertically.
Fhdc – Foundation Half Double (tutorial here)
If you need help reading a crochet pattern, make sure you head over here and check out this detailed post.
Add this to your Ravelry queue here!
Sizes: (NB/3M, 6/9M, 12/18M, 2/4T, 4/6, 6/8, 8/10, 10/12, 12/14)
Child Shorts Pattern:
Left Leg:
ALL SIZES:
Row 1: Leaving a ~10” long tail, Fhdc-(5, 7, 7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11) or Ch-(6, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10, 12, 12, 12), hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each to end. (5, 7, 7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11)
Sizes (NB/3M, 6/9M, 12/18M, 2/4T, 4/6, 6/8, 8/10) ONLY:
Row 2: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end AND THEN ch-(17, 21, 23, 23, 25, 29, 31) (22, 28, 30, 30, 34, 38, 42)
Sizes (10/12 and 12/14) ONLY:
Rows 2 & 3: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (11, 11)
Row 4: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end AND THEN ch-(35, 35) (46, 46)
ALL SIZES:
Row (3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 5, 5): Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each st to end of row. (21, 27, 29, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 45)
Rows (4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6) through (29, 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 45, 49, 51): Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (21, 27, 29, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 45)
Row (30, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 46, 50, 52): Ch-1, turn, hdc in (5, 7, 7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11) sts only. (5, 7, 7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11)
Rows (31, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 47, 51, 53) through (33, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 49, 55, 57): Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (5, 7, 7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11)
Do not fasten off. See construction section.
Right Leg:
Row 1: Leaving a ~10” long tail, Fhdc-(5, 7, 7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11) or Ch-(6, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10, 12, 12, 12), hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each to end. (5, 7, 7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11)
Rows 2 – (3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 5, 5): Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (5, 7, 7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11)
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Row (4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6): Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end AND THEN ch-(17, 21, 23, 23, 25, 29, 31, 35, 35) (22, 28, 30, 30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 46)
Row (5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 7, 7): Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each st to end of row. (21, 27, 29, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 45)
Rows (6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8) through (31, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 47, 51, 53) Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (21, 27, 29, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 45)
Row (32, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 48, 52, 54): Ch-1, turn, hdc in (5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11) sts only. (5, 7, 7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11)
Sizes (NB/3M, 6/9M, 12/18M, 2/4T, 4/6, 6/8, 8/10) ONLY:
Row (33, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 49): Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (5, 7, 7, 7, 9, 9, 11)
Sizes (10/12 and 12/14) ONLY:
Rows (53, 55) through (55, 57): Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (11, 11)
Do not fasten off. See construction section.
Construction (all sizes):
Fold each leg in to form a tube so that the first row and the last row are lined up as pictured. Use the beginning tail to Mattress Stitch the inseam stitches together. (Only the number of stitches from the first row and last row).
Lay legs next to each one another and make sure that they are mirrored as pictured below.
For middle seam:
Making sure to line up crotch seam rows (the back of seat has more rows than the front), and attach yarn at top of waistband. Sl st together using outside loops only down to crotch.
When you reach the crotch, be liberal with your stitches. Before starting on the second side line up the remaining sts so you’re not left with any extra. When finished, do not fasten off.
Top band:
Make sure shorts are right side out. (So you can’t see the seams) Where still attached…
Row 1: Ch-1, sc in each row end around. Join to top of first sc with sl st. (54, 62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 86, 90, 94)
Rows 2 through 4: Ch-1, do not turn, hdc in each st around. Fasten off using Invisible Join. (54, 62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 86, 90, 94)
Add ribbon (or i-cord) to the middle row of the band, weaving through every two stitches.
For smaller sizes I recommend adding elastic. If so, add three extra rows on the waistband (for seven rows total). Fold it back and baste stitch together, encompassing the elastic. Before completely shutting in elastic, use needle and thread to sew elastic together. Weave in all ends.
Bottom edging:
Where still attached…
Round 1: Ch-1, do not turn. Sc in each row end around. Join to first sc with sl st.
Round 2: (optional) * sc in next 3 sts, picot in next st * repeat between * * around, sc in any remaining sts. Fasten off using Invisible Join.
I can’t wait to see yours! Please share with my by tagging @HeartHookHome across all social media and in the Heart Hook Home Crochet Community on Facebook!
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